Whether you're hosting a local gaming tournament, creating milestone tokens for your maker group, or just want to print a fun physical souvenir, 3D printing custom challenge coins and medals is one of the most satisfying weekend projects you can do.
The best part? You don't need complex 3D CAD modeling software like Fusion 360 or Blender to make them. By pairing a simple 2D logo image with heightmap conversion and a basic manual filament swap, you can produce crisp, multi-colored embossed coins on almost any standard FDM printer.
Step 1: Preparing Your Graphic Image
The secret to sharp coin details lies in high contrast. The converter engine reads pixel brightness to calculate model height: pure white becomes the highest raised surface, while pure black forms the flat base plate.
- Use Vector or High-Res PNG Graphics: High-resolution artwork prevents jagged, pixelated edges on small circular coins.
- Crop into a Circle: Using photo tools like GIMP, Photoshop, or Canva, place your logo inside a crisp circular outer rim or border.
- Stick to 2 or 3 Solid Contrast Levels: Keep background area solid dark/black, outer border white, and central emblem elements white.
Pro Tip for Sharp Text on Coins:
If your coin logo has small lettering, increase font weight (bold) and ensure letters don't touch each other. A line width of at least 0.8mm (double your nozzle size) guarantees clean 2-perimeter text printing.
Step 2: Converter Settings for Coin Models
Upload your cropped graphic to ImageToSTL and adjust the settings to dial in appropriate physical dimensions for a pocket coin or medal:
| Parameter | Recommended Value | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Add Base | Enabled (Checked) | Creates the underlying solid coin disk |
| Base Height | 2.4 mm to 3.0 mm | Gives the coin realistic weight and prevents bending |
| Max Relief Height | 1.2 mm to 1.6 mm | Provides clear tactile relief without excessive overhangs |
| Smoothing Filter | Level 1 or 2 | Smooths color stepping without blurring fine text outlines |
Step 3: Dual-Color Printing with Manual Filament Swap
You don't need a dual-extruder or multi-material system (like AMS or MMU) to make two-tone coins. Because the relief emblem sits on top of the base disk, you can pause the print right at the layer height where the logo begins!
- Slice the Model: Import your exported STL into PrusaSlicer, Cura, or Bambu Studio. Set layer height to 0.16mm or 0.20mm for sharp top surfaces.
- Locate the Transition Layer: Move the layer slider in your preview window to the exact layer where the base disk ends and the raised logo starts (e.g. at 2.6mm height).
- Add a Color Change Command: In PrusaSlicer/Bambu Studio, right-click the layer slider and select "Add Color Change (M600)". In Cura, use Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code > Pause at Height.
- Print & Swap Filament: Start printing with your base color (e.g., Black or Navy Blue PLA). When the printer pauses, swap to your accent color (e.g., Silk Gold or Silver PLA), purge the nozzle, and resume!
Step 4: Finishing Touches & Antiquing Technique
To make single-color or metallic prints look like real forged metal coins, try the dry-brushing technique:
Print the coin in matte black PLA. Next, dip a dry stiff paintbrush into gold, bronze, or silver acrylic paint, wipe 95% of the paint off onto a paper towel, and lightly rub the brush over the raised lettering and relief. The metallic paint catches only the elevated detail while leaving deep dark shadows in the recessed base, instantly giving your coin an authentic vintage metal appearance.
Ready to Make Your Own Custom Coins?
Upload your logo or emblem image to our free converter and download your 3D printable STL model in under 10 seconds.
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